Italy by Road — We Went Together

Rome · Days 1–3

The Vatican, Almost Empty

COVID restrictions had only just eased. Getting to Italy meant extra tests and decisions we had not needed before, but we wanted to travel again rather than keep waiting for normal life to return.

Sophie and George lying on the floor of the almost empty Vatican

A masked Swiss Guard at the Vatican — Even the Swiss Guard wore a mask.

Tuscany · Umbria · Days 4–9

The Road South

Once we left Rome, the van gave us room to take the long way: Saturnia’s thermal pools, hill towns, pauses whenever the children needed one, and somewhere new at the end of each day.

The family at Saturnia’s thermal pools — Saturnia thermal pools.

The family van at a hill-country farm stay

George looking at persimmons at a farm stay in rural Italy — George inspecting the persimmon tree.

Sophie outside an Italian shop with a free ice cream — “Buongiorno” gets Sophie a free ice cream.

Farm stays · Days 10–12

Staying in the Hills

At the hillside farm stays, the children found time to slow down: picking vegetables for dinner, exploring the grounds and simply being together. We also visited the Monastery of Saint Benedict, known as Sacro Speco, high above Subiaco.

The children relaxing in a hammock at the farm

Vanessa and Sophie picking vegetables at the farm — Picking vegetables for dinner.

Sophie at the Monastery of Saint Benedict in Subiaco — Sacro Speco, the Monastery of Saint Benedict, above Subiaco.

Vanessa, Sophie and George overlooking the hillside farm at sunset

Capri · Days 14–16

Capri at Their Pace

We took the cable car and wandered around Capri’s streets. Later, after we carried Sophie down to the beach, she was determined to swim—until she felt the cold.

Vanessa carrying Sophie down to the beach in Capri

Philip and Sophie swimming at a rocky beach in Capri — A very cold swim in Capri.

Philip and George on the cable car in Capri

Pompeii · Positano · Days 17–21

The Amalfi Coast

Pompeii and Positano gave us the grand views. Positano rose steeply from its dark-pebble beach, joined by lanes and stairways; for the children, the coast meant time to play with sand.

View over Positano from the family’s balcony — Our balcony view over Positano.

Sophie and George at the Positano beach — Positano’s dark-pebble beach.

Rome · Days 22–23

Back to the Vatican, Then Home

On our final morning, we returned to the Vatican Museums to see the Sistine Chapel. By the end, Sophie and George had found a use for the suitcase while Vanessa tried to pack, then we headed home.

Sophie and George walking out of the Vatican — One final Vatican morning.

Sophie and George jumping into a suitcase while Vanessa packs